DAMASCUS, Syria — It’s a sweltering Friday night and the brightly lit streets of the mainly Christian neighborhood of Kasaa throb with the rhythms of music and the laughter of scores of young men and women strolling or sitting in outdoor cafes sipping beer or soft drinks.

That is, until the deep rumble of twin 82 mm mortar blasts. The music stops, shops are shuttered, the streets are empty.

Welcome to Damascus.

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